"NTSC Hardware (FBX)"
This is a superb palette for PVM/BVM users, and also looks fantastic on plasma displays. Analog RGB was fed into a calibrated Sony PVM monitor, and then meticulously aligned on each color entry to match as closely as possible to the NTSC feed from an original NES. The only major exception is the blue sky color as used in Super Mario Bros. The blue voltage is out of range of analog RGB, and cannot be reproduced as a result. The color will look more 'dull' on RGB because even a maximum value of 255 in the blue channel is not enough to reproduce the same color as seen from the NTSC NES.
Palette file link: NTSC Hardware (FBX)
"PVM Style D93 (FBX)"
This palette is for digital display users that want a more authentic CRT experience (as close as can be approximated). It approximates the color and intensity of a Sony PVM CRT screen. Over 30 hours was put into composing this palette, with sampling countless games from the entire NES library. Many passes were done of the palette during live feed from a PVM until each and every color transitioned identically to the PVM screen. I then synchronized boot-ups of dozens of NES games to watch the color output from the PVM and the LCD display side-by-side. The results were fantastically similar, and as absolutely as close as humanly possible. The PVM was set to D93 color temp for this final version.
Palette file link: PVM Style D93 (FBX)
"Composite Direct (FBX)"
This is a pure, unmodified direct-capture of the composite output of the front-loader NTSC NES. It's intended for posterity and is a good all-around versital palette. Can be used on digital or analog displays, but is not the most accurate experience. It is however, more faithful to 'intended colors' than what eventually shows up on a CRT screen with original NES hardware.
Palette file link: Composite Direct (FBX)
"NES Classic (FBX-FS)"
A direct capture rip of the NES Classic's palette meant of course for digital display users. Unfortunately, Nintendo decided to add in a number of epilepsy protection features to their NES Classic console. One of which is noise in solid color. There was no choice but to average the noise out of the color when doing the palette rip. I was able to make use of the Russian hack called "Hakchi2" in order to run my custom color test ROM and sample the entire screen for each color entry, making for maximum accuracy short of hackers finding the original RGB hex codes. This palette is purely for the novelty of being able to use the "official" colors Nintendo picked for their new system. However, it is not entirely accurate to original hardware, and of course the colors are a bit muted from their epilepsy protection efforts.
Palette file link: NES Classic (FBX-FS).zip
You can order the boards from OSH Park here:
OSH Park NESRGB JTAG Adapter Board
You will need one of these ribbon sockets:
10-pin Ribbon Socket
And a row of male pin headers like these:
6-pin square posts
Now that will at least get you started if you've got experience soldering. I went a step further and used a row of round slender pin headers, and then soldered the jtag wires to a corresponding row of female IC headers to slip onto those pins (as you can see in the internal image of my adapter port mod). This makes it so I can disconnect the wires from the adapter port without having to de-solder anything.
Now if you prefer not modding the plastic housing of your NES, you can simply use the square-pin adapter assembly I linked to and hook it into the jtag holes of the NESRGB board directly whenever you need to flash the firmware. Details on the NESRGB board's jtag interface are shown below in the stripped wire method of updating the Firmware:
Stripped wire method: You'll need to strip the ribbon cable that came with your Altera Blaster down to six individual wires. The red coating on the first wire corresponds to pin #1 on the Altera Blaster, and each wire after that corresponds to the next pin (i.e. the 2nd wire goes to pin #2, the 3rd wire goes to pin #3, and so on). The wires you want are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 9. These will be hooked into the 6 terminal holes on the NESRGB board as indicated below:
Wire #4 goes into the "3V3" terminal.
Wire #2 goes into the "GND" terminal.
Wire #3 goes into the "TDO" terminal.
Wire #1 goes into the "TCK" terminal.
Wire #9 goes into the "TDI" terminal.
Wire #5 goes into the "TMS" terminal.
Make absolutely certain you have the correct wires hooked into the correct terminals. I leave it to you to decide if you want to solder them or make a temporary interface (which is how I handled it). For reference, below is the Blaster pinout diagram:
Once you have everything hooked up, power on the Nintendo and plug the USB cord-side of the Altera Blaster into your PC. Then run the Quartus II 13.1 Programmer and follow the steps below:
If everything was done properly, you should see the progress bar fill with green as the programmer updates the NESRGB board. Wait until it finishes, then close the program (don't bother saving when prompted), turn the Nintendo's power off, and unhook the Altera from your PC and Nintendo.